Today Digital Photography School has made the leap into a new online medium – Twitter.

UPDATE: 

So I was just browsing older articles here on dPS, and came across this gem, remember when Twitter was called Twitter… oh, err, I mean ‘X’ – whatever, you know what I mean! Well we are STILL on X (Twitter) and we’re also on Facebook, we have a private Facebook Group AND we even have an Instagram and Threads account. Do you follow us on any of them / all of them?

Which leads me to my next question, do you share your photography on social media? We would love you to share a link to where you share your work, online, in the comments below!

For those of you who don’t know Twitter – it is a social site that enables people to share short messages with their followers. It’s known as ‘micro-blogging’ because you only get 140 characters to write your message. There are millions of people ‘Twittering’ – it’s fun and quite addictive.

So today we started the Digital Photography School Twitter account.

It’s a place where we’ll post messages when we update our blog, announce new assignments in our forums, ask photography questions, take your questions and suggestions.

To follow the account just signup as a Twitter user and then ‘follow’ us.

The post Digital Photography School on Twitter appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

If you’re a “Just give me the facts” kind of reader, I’ve summed this one up and shared it here for you! — Simon

Foreground elements enhance depth: Including strong foregrounds in a photo creates a three-dimensional feel, helping the viewer feel immersed in the scene.

Foregrounds provide context: In modern travel and landscape photography, foregrounds can ground the image by showing location-specific details (like rocks, flowers, or textures), adding storytelling value.

Creates visual interest: Thoughtful use of foregrounds can break up negative space and lead the viewer’s eye into the image, making it more engaging.

Helps with composition: Foregrounds are crucial in widely used compositional techniques like leading lines, framing, and the rule of thirds.

Foregrounds aid in perspective: Placing elements at varying distances in the frame (foreground, midground, background) enhances spatial awareness—key in both DSLR and mobile photography today.

Still relevant across styles: Whether you’re shooting for Instagram, stock, or fine art, using foregrounds to build depth is just as important now as it was in the past.

After my last overseas trip I received emails from two fellow travelers from the tour group I shared two weeks with as I toured around Turkey. Both emails contained some of the ‘best’ photos that my two fellow travelers. Many of the photos that each of them took were in the same locations (mainly landscape photography) and I was fascinated to compare them because despite being taken in the same location – many of them were remarkably different in terms of quality.

One of my fellow travelers consistently had taken better shots and one of the reasons for this was that he’d obviously given some thought to the foregrounds in his shots and used them to really add depth to the shots he’d taken. His shots made you feel like you were standing right in the scene itself. The foregrounds added context, perspective and interest.

On the other hand – my other friend had quite obviously given the foreground in his images little, if any, thought at all. The resulting images were one dimensional and lacked a way into the shots.

I’ve looked previously at factors to think about in the background of images and now I’d like to raise a few to consider with foregrounds:

1. Check your Foreground Before Hitting the Shutter Release

Ok – so this was the same point that I made in the background article but it applies here too (I promise the rest of the points in this post will be more unique). Before you hit the shutter always run your eye around the viewfinder (all of it).

Check your foreground for distracting elements but also move your camera around a little to see what you’re missing from your foreground that could ADD something to your shot. You see good foregrounds don’t just happen. Sometimes you have to search them out and make them happen.

2. Get Down Low

One of the strategies that many landscape photographers use when trying to accentuate their foreground is to lower the height that they take their image from. Crouch down and/or lower your tripod and you’ll find the perspective of your shots can be changed quite remarkably.

3. Raise your Horizon

Similarly when you change the positioning of the horizon you change the influence that a foreground has on the image. Most people naturally place horizons in the middle of a frame but as we’ve discussed previously they tend to do better along one of the horizontal ‘thirds lines’. If you place it on the bottom third line you tend to emphasize the sky in your shot – however when you put the horizon on the top third line you accentuate the foreground. Either can work of course – depending upon what’s going on in the sky or foreground but if you have an interesting foreground you’ll generally want a higher horizon.

4. Use Leading Lines

Another very effective strategy with foregrounds is to look for ‘leading lines’ that will draw the viewer’s eyes into your image. They’re usually vertical lines (sometimes with a diagonal direction) of some kind.

Leading lines could be actual lines but they might also be objects, patterns or shapes that create flow from the bottom edge of the imaged up into the main part of the frame.

5. Aperture

Depending upon the type of image and the effect that you’re after – you’ll probably want to use a reasonably small aperture (a larger number) in order to have a large depth of field. This will keep as much of the image in focus as possible (from your foreground and into the background).

Updated 2025

The post How to Get Foregrounds Right in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

“Good things come to those who wait”

This old proverb was one that I heard a lot of growing up – it was a favorite saying around our house and one that I think has had a fairly significant impact upon me in numerous aspects of my life – not the least of which is my photography.

While digital photography is sometimes known for it’s spontaneity I’ve found that most successful photographers also have the ability to sit with a scene or subject for a considerable amount of time until the situation is right to get things just as they should be to get the picture perfect.

Patience comes into play in many forms of photography:

• Landscape – there are many aspects of landscape photography that takes patience ranging from scoping out the perfect place to shoot from to waiting to get the light just right before shooting.
• Sports – last year when I was at the Australian Open (tennis) I went along expecting that the skill I would need the most was to be spontaneous as a photographer but I came away realizing that the only reason I came away with any decent shots was that I’d really persisted and taken my time in thinking through my shots. It was only because I continued to shoot over a longer period of time that I honed my framing and exposure to get things just right.
• Portraits – studio portraits can be a little more predictable than candid portrait shots but in both cases people are unpredictable beings and getting a pose just right or capturing an interaction between two subjects can take considerable time to get right.
• Wildlife – taking photos of animals is even more unpredictable than photographing people and as a result there can be long waits to both find them in the wild but also to get capture them in a the right position, light and framing.
• Macro – similarly taking macro shots is generally not an overly spontaneous thing to do, especially when your subject is a moving one (insects for example) and when you’re shooting in a natural environment when the light changes and wind blows.

The list could go on….

I find that the actual moment that you take an image is often a very spontaneous one but that to get to those moments you often need real patience.

Of course patience is not something you can really teach in an article like this – except to say that it’s a skill to work on and that great photographers generally set aside time to hone their craft.

These thoughts generally ring true today! Looking back through our earlier articles, this one from Darren stood out to me – It’s good to slow down in this fast, mostly digital, Ai filled world and have a little patience in everything we do, and in this case – photography. 30 frames a second is great – when it’s needed – but so is a single, well thought out scene and resultant image.

Good things come to those who wait!

Updated 2025 – Simon ??

The post Patience and Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

I thoroughly enjoy photographing children and have opportunity to do quite a bit of it lately after many of our friends have had babies.

Probably the most important tip I’ve learned in photographing them is to get on their level. So many of my friends show me photos of their kids which are taken from 4 or so feet above the child which does nothing but dwarf them and make them look almost toy-like.

Getting on your hands and knees or crouching down before you take a shot of a child takes you into their world and helps you to engage with them through the images you take.

Photographing Babies

Babies are particularly difficult to photograph because they are so immobile. I find that one of the best ways to get good shots of them is to put them on a baby rug and too literally lie down next to them with your camera right on the floor. In this way you’re looking directly into their big beautiful eyes and it puts the viewer of the photo in the unique perspective of an eye to eye place. If the child has the ability to lift it’s head the effects can be amazing as you almost find yourself looking UP into their eyes.

Photographing Older Children
The same principle of getting down low applies with older children although you do have a little less lying on the floor with them when they are at an age of walking.

I particularly find that with older children the best time to photograph them is when they are doing something that they enjoy. Go to the park with them and their parents, visit their house when they are painting pictures, get them to take you on a tour of their room or take them out to play their favorite sport.

While they are doing their activity hover around (at their level) and take plenty of shots. Also include shots with them and their parents and keep an eye open for those candid moments when they fall over, do funny expressions or ham it up for the camera.

If your camera has a continuous shooting mode it might also be worth keeping that on with bigger kids who tend to move around more. As I look back at the times I’ve done this it’s quite interesting to see that it’s often the second or third shot in a sequence that is best. Shooting just one frame at a time can mean you miss these golden opportunities.

Another benefit of continuous shooting is that you can end up with a great series of shots that might go nicely together to tell a story (see below).

Change your Focal Length

Another great way to change the angles of your shots when photographing kids is to use different focal lengths. If you’re using a DSLR it might be worth investing in a couple of different lenses (a wide angle one and a longer zoom) to give you different options. If you’re using a point and shoot (most of which have at least a 3x Optical Zoom) make sure you use it.

Taking pictures with a wide angle focal length can be particularly effective when getting in close to children. It opens up the angles and gives all kinds of interesting perspectives. I use a 17-40mm zoom lens on my DSLR which is brilliant for this. It still allows me to zoom in a little but at 17mm the impact is amazing.

A zoom lens allows you to take photos from further afield and will particularly be useful if the child is distracted by you taking photos. I use a 70-200mm zoom (the third image above was taken with it) which I find very useful.

Have Fun

Lastly, the key to good kid shots is to rediscover your own inner child. Kids love to have fun, they do the unexpected, they love to experiment and test things out and they love to play. Approach photographing them in this spirit and you’ll find your pictures take on a wonderful childlike quality.

The post Photographing Children – Composition appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This week I got an email from a reader who wrote the following question about ‘low light sports photography’.

“I am about to move from Point and Shoot to DSLR. I will receive my Nikon D50 in two days. I want to practice by taking sports photos at my co-workers softball games. They play at night under the lights. Is there anything I should know about that type of lighting. Flash or no flash? White balance? Thanks”

Here’s how I replied:

Hi there (name withheld) – you must be excited! I still remember the days before my Canon 20D arrived!

Ok – my approach to lowlight sports photography:

It’s hard to get right. The combination of distance from your subject (makes flash less effective), the low light and the speed that sports brings to your subject make it very difficult.

Experiment – As a result the key is to experiment lots during the session. I’d say try using flash, try shots without it, try playing with different settings (see below). The great thing about digital cameras is that you can take almost unlimited shots and don’t have to worry about cost. Take loads of shots at different settings and you’ll find yourself learning as you go and honing in on what works best in the situation you’re in.

Try your Flash – I’m not sure if you have an external flash or you’ll just be relying upon the camera’s built in one but the inbuilt one will probably not be too effective unless you’re up close. Give it a go though, you might be surprised. An external flash will be more powerful but I find in most stadiums there is enough light to shoot without flash and that with many sports it’s actually either not allowed or not appropriate to use them as they can distract the competitors.

Shutter Speed – Ideally with sports you need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion of your subjects. Unfortunately this means less light gets in so depending upon how light the field is you might need to slow it down (and then you’ll get blur). To have some control of shutter speed select your cameras shutter speed priority mode and choose the quickest speed that it will allow you to choose.

ISO – this is probably the feature you’ll want to play with the most. I don’t know if you’ve ever used film cameras and noticed much about ISO but it’s about how sensitive the film is. The higher the number the lower the light you could shoot in. The downside was that the higher the number the grainier your shots turned out. The same applies with digital. You can increase your ISO and this will enable you to shoot at faster shutter speeds. The cost is that you’ll get grainier shots (‘noise) the higher you go. Again – the key if you’re playing with a new camera is to experiment. Learn how to change ISO before you go out and shoot off different shots at different ISO

Lenses – again, not sure what lens you have or if you have more than one but another way to speed up your camera which will enable shooting in low light is to get a ‘fast’ lens( a lens with a larger aperture).

The lower the aperture that you shoot at the more light your lens allows into your camera (and the quicker the shutter speed will be) – and as we know a quick shutter speed makes capturing a moving subject easier).

One of the consequences of shooting a larger aperture is that you’ll get a shallower depth of field which can really add to a photograph but also means you really need to watch your focussing as if you happen to focus slightly off your subject they will appear very out of focus.

This might factor into future considerations for purchases. Often the kit lens that comes with a DSLR is a lower quality lens and not as fast. I’m not sure what D50’s ship with in your part of the world but most ship with something in the f/5.6 aperture range. If you are going to be taking a lot of lower light situation shots you might want to consider buying a second lens at some point that has a lower f/number. I’m not too familiar with Nikon lenses but I know in Canon you can get one that is as fast at f/1.2 (its an 85mm lens) which reportedly will let you shoot in light approaching candle light.

White Balance – shooting in low light usually means you have some sort of artificial light going on which can make your photos come out in all kinds of different shades (you might have noticed sometimes images shot in low light come out with a yellow or greenish tinge to them). ‘White Balance’ is the function in your camera that tells your camera what’s white in your shot so that it can make adjustments to get the right balance in your other colors. Read your camera’s manual on white balance and learn how to experiment with it and you can significantly change the temperature of your photos.

Image Stabilization – the other way to get a lens which will shoot in low light is to look for one with IS (image stabilization). This will let you drop your shutter speed down lower. Of course this isn’t ideal for sports shots as they move too fast, but if you are shooting still subjects in low light it’s very useful.

Sports Mode – most digital cameras come with a built in ‘sports mode’. This usually does a reasonable job of optimizing aperture, shutter speed and ISO to give you the best shot for the conditions you’re in. I find that it works best in well lit situations however and that experimenting manually with the above factors is more effective in low light.

Tripod – lastly, a tripod, monopod or some other stable surface will help a lot also as it’ll help cut down on camera shake if you have to resort to slow shutter speeds.

I’m not sure that really solves all the challenges you face in shooting sports in low light (as I say it’s tricky) but I hope it at least gives you some options to think about and experiment with.

As I say – the key I’ve found is to shoot LOTS of shots at different settings, especially in the early days of your experience with your DSLR.

Happy Shooting.

The post Low Light Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.

After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.

In this article, I share 18 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.

Let’s dive right in!

1. Carry backup cards whenever you shoot

Card failure is unpredictable, and the last thing you want is to miss a once-in-a-lifetime shot because your only card decided to act up.

Therefore, I’ve made it a habit to carry at least three cards with me on every shoot. And while it might seem excessive, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Imagine you’re capturing a breathtaking sunset or a candid moment at a child’s birthday party. Suddenly, your camera stops working due to a card error. If you have a backup, you just switch cards and continue shooting. But without a backup, that moment is lost forever. (Of course, it’s not just about having extras; it’s also about ensuring you have enough storage to keep shooting without worries.)

For different shoots, the backup cards you choose can vary. For a casual day out, a couple of smaller capacity cards might suffice. But for a professional gig, you might want to carry a handful of larger, high-speed cards. These backups will be your photography lifeline.

By the way, one thing I’ve noticed that’s true, at least for myself: having backup cards provides immense peace of mind. When you’re focused on getting the perfect shot, the last thing you want is to worry about storage space or card failure. The backups serve as a guarantee that no matter what happens, your photography can go on uninterrupted.

2. If disaster strikes, stop shooting

If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.

Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.

If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.

3. Treat your cards well

It’s crucial to treat your memory cards with care, especially when you’re out in difficult conditions. In the heat of the moment, switching cards quickly might seem necessary, but it’s also essential to take the time to handle them properly. I’ve seen too many instances where a little negligence led to big problems. A few tips here:

First, always ensure your hands are clean when handling memory cards. Dirt and oils don’t mesh well will the delicate connectors. And hold the cards gently by the edges, avoiding the gold contacts. This might sound like overkill, but it’s these small habits that can prolong the life of your cards.

Another key point is to be focused when handling your cards. Distractions can lead to accidental drops, especially in outdoor environments. I’ve heard of photographers dropping cards into puddles. Don’t let that be you!

Proper storage is also vital. When not in use, keep your cards in a protective case to shield them from dust, moisture, and physical damage. Avoid extreme temperatures and magnetic sources as these can damage the data. Think of your memory cards as fragile; that way, you’ll have the best shot at preserving the images they hold.

4. Avoid deleting files one by one on your camera

Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.

The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.

(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)

5. Remove cards safely from your computer

It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.

But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.

(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)

6. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card

These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.

I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).

7. Keep your cards organized

With memory cards, a little organization can go a long way! It’s easy to mix up cards when you’re juggling multiple shoots or locations. You don’t want to reach for a card during an important shoot, only to find it full. Or worse, realize that you just formatted a card that holds valuable images.

I’ve found that a clear system can be incredibly helpful. I use a memory card case for this purpose. My fresh cards always go on the left side, and the used ones on the right. It’s simple but effective. When I’m in the field, this system saves me from second-guessing. I always know exactly where my empty cards are.

Of course, what works for me might not work for you. Some photographers prefer labeling their cards with stickers or using different colored cases. The key is consistency. Stick to your chosen method so it becomes second nature.

8. Avoid filling your cards completely

My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.

Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.

9. Periodically reformat your cards

This memory card tip is quick but essential:

Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!

10. Format your memory cards in the right camera

As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.

For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.

11. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card

Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.

(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)

12. Transfer photos as soon as you can

There’s a simple rule I follow: transfer your photos as soon as possible. Why? Memory cards are reliable, but they’re not infallible. The longer your images sit on a card, the higher the risk of loss, either through card failure or misplacement.

I’ve made it a habit: every time I return from a shoot, I transfer my images to my desktop hard drives. Then, once the images are safely transferred and backed up, I delete them from the card. This routine ensures I always have a fresh card ready for my next adventure.

But there’s another reason for this habit: untransferred images are easily forgotten. You might capture an amazing moment, only to forget about its impact and relevance when it sits unseen on a card for months.

13. Keep your camera up to date

Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.

Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.

14. Periodically update your cards

Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.

Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!

15. Replace batteries before they die

When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.

You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!

16. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting

This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.

However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.

17. Keep your memory cards safe

Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.

Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.

That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!

18. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost

This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.

Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!

How to use camera memory cards: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.

Bottom line: Having backup cards, organizing them effectively, transferring photos promptly, treating them with care, and more – these aren’t just recommendations, they’re necessities for any photographer who values their work. Implementing these habits will save you from the heartache and frustration that come with memory card mishaps.

So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.

Now over to you:

Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Use Camera Memory Cards: 18 Essential Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions by seven expert photographers: Andrew S Gibson, Mat Coker, Kevin Landwer-Johan, Bobby Roy, Peter West Carey, Trisha Bartle, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Candid photography is a great way to capture spontaneous, honest images, the type of shots that tell real stories about their subjects. But taking candid photos can be difficult – even stressful – especially if you’ve never done it before.

Fortunately, there are plenty of tips and techniques that pro-level candid photographers use to get consistently great results, and in this article, I aim to share them all, including:

• How to photograph without drawing attention to yourself
• A simple technique to keep your subjects acting natural (even once they’ve noticed you)
• The right candid photography settings and gear for sharp, well-exposed images
• Plenty of resources for amazing candid portraits and candid wedding shots

I also cover the basics, including what candid photography is and whether it’s legal. So if you’re ready to add that authentic feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, street scenes, wedding shots, and more, let’s dive right in!

What is candid photography?

Candid photography is any photo that captures an authentic, unposed moment. It’s about preserving genuine expressions, emotions, and interactions without any forced poses or awareness of the camera. Instead of arranging the scene or instructing subjects to pose, candid photography aims to document life as it unfolds organically.

In this style of photography, images are often taken while subjects are often engrossed in their activities or simply being themselves. The photographer’s role is to observe and seize those fleeting, authentic moments that reveal the true essence of the subject.

That said, some candid photos are taken with the subject’s awareness. During a wedding, for instance, guests often know that the camera is pointed in their direction, but they still act naturally, resulting in beautiful candid shots. The key here is the authenticity of the photo; whether or not the subject knows they’re being photographed, if the image is authentic, then it’s a candid shot.

When is candid photography useful?

Candid photography is incredibly useful in various situations and genres, allowing you to capture spontaneous and natural moments.

After all, you won’t always be in a position to engage with your subject. And sometimes doing so will disrupt a natural flow of events. So when you find yourself in situations where you think you or your camera will alter the scene, it’s good to remain candid.

Here are some specific genres where candid photography shines:

• Portrait photography: Candid portraits offer a wonderful authenticity compared to posed shots. They effectively capture the true essence of your subject. During a portrait session, you can encourage your subjects to act naturally or engage in activities, discreetly photographing them as they do. You can also seize candid opportunities between poses or while transitioning from one location to another.
• Wedding and event photography: Candid wedding and event photography is very popular – and for good reason! These occasions present a multitude of possibilities, from capturing the bride getting ready to the groom adjusting his tie, and guests enjoying themselves at the reception. Candid shots in these scenarios are often effortless and stress-free, as the subjects are typically accepting of the camera’s presence while being engrossed in the main event.
• Street photography: Almost all street photography relies on candid shots taken without the subject’s consent. The goal of a street photographer is to remain unnoticed, capturing individuals in their natural states. Street candids can encompass wide street landscapes, interactions between a few subjects, or a solitary person lost in thought, walking through the rain, or simply observing their surroundings.
• Travel photography: When exploring different destinations, candid shots can help depict the unique essence of a place. Travel candid photography often resembles street photography, highlighting the people, clothing, lighting, and architecture that make a location distinctive.

Plus, taking candid photos is a fun challenge. You don’t get to direct the scene, and you have to take whatever the moment offers.

And if you’re part of the activity or event, when doing candid photography, you really get to see what is going on. Many people complain that they miss out on a group or family experience because they’re always taking pictures. If you focus more on seeing candid moments than on clicking away, you may find that you’re more in tune with events than ever before. As the great candid photographer Dorothea Lange said, “The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.”

Is it legal to take candid photos?

While candid photography without consent is generally legal in many places, such as the United States, the rules can vary depending on your location. It’s crucial to check the laws of the specific place where you plan to do candid photography to avoid any legal trouble.

That said, candid photography with consent is widely accepted and legal almost everywhere. This means that if you’re in an area where shooting without consent is prohibited, you can still capture some fantastic candid shots by simply asking for permission first. Once your subject agrees, you can take photos as they naturally go about their activities.

The best candid photography settings

What are the best camera settings for capturing good candid moments?

If you don’t understand your camera very well, then begin with Auto mode. Being on Auto means that you don’t need to think about camera settings at all. You can just focus on seeing the future and being ready for moments.

The problem, however, is that Auto mode is going to let you down quite often by capturing photos that are overexposed (too bright), underexposed (too dark), or blurry.

So you should begin to learn about ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Once you understand these three things, you’ll understand many of the technical problems in your photos.

When you’re ready to move away from Auto mode, I highly recommend using Aperture Priority along with exposure compensation. Choose the aperture for its creative effect (f/1.8 for a shallow depth of field – f/16 for a greater depth of field). Let the camera figure out the rest. Then just focus on capturing the moment. Use exposure compensation when photos keep coming out too dark or too bright.

When you’re ready for a real challenge, you can try moving onto Manual mode. But even when you’re comfortable in Manual mode, you may find yourself scrambling with settings too much while trying to capture candid moments.

When you get good at anticipating moments, you can take a couple of test shots and look at the exposure. You can adjust your settings and still be ready to capture the moment that you know is coming.

And once you’re fully comfortable with how your camera works, you’ll forget about it in the moment!

How to take stunning candid photos: 23 general tips and tricks

Struggling to take the kind of candid shots you can be proud of? Here are 16 tips to instantly improve your photos:

1. Take your camera everywhere

The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.

When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.

Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.

2. Learn to see the future

Initially, it may feel as if you have no control over moments. Everything is chaotic and you have no idea when a moment is going to happen. But with practice, you’ll feel like you actually have a lot of control over spontaneous moments.

In order to capture good candid moments, you need to be able to see the future. Seeing the future means developing the ability to anticipate what is about to happen before it does.

Some things are easy to anticipate because they are so predictable. The sun rises and sets every day. If you want a nice photo of the sunrise you know exactly when it’s going to happen.

But how about anticipating less predictable moments? You don’t know exactly when a storm is going to arise or exactly what form it will take. If you want to photograph storms you’ll need to watch how they behave across the seasons. Where I live it’s very rare to have a thunderstorm, but you can feel it in the air when one is coming.

Still other things, such as people, seem completely unpredictable. Take toddlers for example. Who knows what they’re going to do at any moment?

But even something as seemingly random and chaotic as the behavior of toddlers is predictable. It just takes a bit longer to notice the pattern.

Patterns are the key to seeing moments before they happen.

Patterns are woven into our culture, our relationships and our personality.

Pay attention to the things you love to photograph, watch for patterns, and take note. Your ability to anticipate moments will increase over time if you observe and practice regularly.

Learn to anticipate moments by looking for patterns. Once you can do this, you’ll be able to see the future (which has benefits beyond photography). When you sense a moment approaching, the worst thing you can do is interrupt.

3. Use a long focal length

To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.

Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens wisely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.

That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.

Alternatively:

4. Use a small camera with a small lens

Another approach is to use a small camera with a small lens and get in much closer to the action. The idea here is that the small camera gives you the perception that you are less intimidating than somebody using a large DSLR setup. You are much more likely to be able to take photos without being noticed or to be ignored if you are.

For instance, you might use a smaller mirrorless camera, a point-and-shoot camera, or even your smartphone. And as for lenses, a standard 50mm f/1.8 lens can do a great job and is very inconspicuous, though if you like a wide-angle look, you might grab a 35mm prime instead!

Personally, I really enjoy using a wider lens; the beauty is that you can get in close and photograph people without them even being aware that you are doing so. How? Simply place them at the edge of the frame, or on one of the thirds. The camera will point away from them and they may not even be aware that they are being photographed.

And even if they notice you, as long as you don’t look at them or make eye contact, they will think you are photographing a completely different subject! Of course, this works best when there is something interesting there that a tourist would naturally take a photo of.

5. Kill the flash

Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.

So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.

You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.

6. Go when the light is beautiful

Beautiful light is key to creating evocative portraits that capture the spirit and atmosphere of a place. You’ll increase your chances of creating beautiful images exponentially by going out when the light is beautiful.

Of course, when doing candid photography, you can’t always choose the lighting, the cloud cover, or the time of day – but whenever possible, get out at the end of the day during the golden hour. There is also lots of potential during dusk, especially with the mix of artificial and natural light that you find in urban environments.

7. Wait for your subject to look away or drop their pose

Capturing the perfect candid shot often requires a bit of patience and keen observation. When photographing subjects who are highly aware of your presence, such as during portrait sessions or events, it can be challenging to capture their genuine, natural expressions.

Here’s what you can do: Instead of hurriedly turning away when your subject notices you, simply give them a warm smile or act as though you’re adjusting your camera settings. You may keep their attention for a moment, but after a few beats, something magical will happen:

As they become absorbed in the flow of the activity around them, they’ll forget about your presence and start acting naturally once again. That’s when you seize the opportunity, swiftly raise your camera to your eye, and capture that spontaneous, unposed shot.

8. Let them know you’re coming

This approach obviously won’t work for certain types of candid shots, but if you’re photographing a family gathering or intimate event, it can make a big difference.

You see, at a family gathering, someone is always taking photos. Most people like to ham it up for the camera or will avoid it like the plague. Letting your family know beforehand that you’ll be taking some photos and that they should act natural will greatly increase your odds of capturing the essence of the moment.

Not everyone will heed this request, but it’s good for people to know they should generally ignore your photo-taking; that way, people won’t act unnatural, and you won’t distract them from the event.

9. Take a lot of images

Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.

In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.

So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.

10. Position yourself strategically

While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.

So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?

If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.

11. Carefully work each scene

Candid photography, whether it’s photojournalism, lifestyle, street, wildlife, or travel photography, is about exploring. So don’t just take one photo and walk away. Begin taking photos before the moment actually happens and continue taking photos after it has passed. Be vigilant and ready for all the other moments that are about to unfold.

Ideally, you should walk away from an encounter having learned something. Perhaps you’ve seen a deeper pattern, better predicted a moment, or were rewarded with a great photograph for being there sooner and staying longer.

And remember: candid moments are about presence. You need to be there and be part of the moment. Yes, you’re standing back just far enough to capture a photo, but you’re just as much a part of the moments you capture as the people and places in your photos.

You’re not expecting to walk into a scene, snap one amazing candid shot and move on. You’ve got to be around long enough to understand what’s going on and begin to see the future.

It’s never the moment you think. You anticipate what’s going to happen and even when you capture a great moment, there are more to come. Some will surprise you completely as you begin to see new patterns you haven’t noticed before. Patterns run pretty deep, and you need to be able to see some simple ones before the deeper ones reveal themselves.

12. Shoot through store and restaurant windows

If you’re eager to capture candid street photos but concerned about drawing attention, here’s a cool little technique: Shoot through windows of stores and restaurants. It’s a fantastic way to photograph without disturbing the natural flow of the scene.

Take a stroll through a bustling area in a nearby city, keeping an eye out for interesting subjects. As you walk, glance through the windows of establishments you pass by. Often, people inside are absorbed in their activities and don’t notice what’s happening outside, which gives you the perfect opportunity to discreetly capture candid moments.

Make sure your camera settings are adjusted to handle the lower lighting conditions indoors. When you spot a captivating subject worth photographing, swiftly raise your camera, seize the candid shot, and continue on your way!

13. Photograph people doing things

Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.

For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of storytelling (plus, it’ll take the focus off of you!).

Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.

Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.

14. Get your subject to interact with the environment

If you’re doing a portrait photoshoot and you want to capture some candid images, it can be a challenge to make your subject feel relaxed and act natural, especially if you’ve spent the first half of the session taking posed shots. Fortunately, you can often speed the process along by encouraging your subject to look away from the camera and engage with their surroundings.

Imagine you’re in a picturesque park. Instead of simply instructing your subject to stand and smile, invite them to have some fun with the environment around them. Encourage them to scramble up a gentle slope, lean down to catch the scent of a blooming flower, or take a joyful run down a winding forest path.

If you’re shooting in an urban setting, suggest climbing a flight of steps, gazing up at stunning architectural wonders, or even waving to people passing by. The key is to inspire your subject to interact with their surroundings naturally.

By redirecting their focus from the camera to the environment, you’ll create a relaxed atmosphere where your subject can genuinely express themselves. As they engage with the surroundings, their gestures, expressions, and body language will become more authentic, resulting in captivating candid shots that truly reflect their personality.

Remember, the more your subject immerses themselves in the environment, the less self-conscious they’ll feel about being photographed!

15. Photograph people with people

When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:

You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.

Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.

16. Shoot from the hip

Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:

Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm. Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting. Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.

And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.

This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.

17. Pretend to be photographing behind your subject

If you’re out on the street and spot a fantastic subject you want to capture candidly, play the role of a tourist. Act as if you’re photographing the broader scene: the bustling street, the picturesque park, or the city skyline. Aim your camera in different directions as though you’re contemplating various expansive compositions.

By adopting this approach, your intended candid subject will often ignore you completely. And even if they do notice, they’ll likely assume you’re photographing something else and continue going about their business. It’s a clever way to blend in and capture those authentic moments without drawing unnecessary attention.

18. Change your perspective

Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?

For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).

Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all!), try shooting from the hip (as discussed above). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.

19. Watch your backgrounds

When capturing candid photos, it’s easy to become hyper-focused on the people in the scene. However, it’s important to remember that while candid shots are all about the subject, the background plays a crucial role, too. A distracting or cluttered background can draw the viewer’s attention away from the subject and diminish the impact of the photo.

So before pressing the shutter, take a moment to assess the background. Ensure the backdrop features non-distracting elements, such as a stand of trees or a clean brick wall. And if your subject happens to be positioned in front of a problematic backdrop, don’t fret. Simply adjust your angle and position to find a better perspective!

Alternatively, you can also use a wide aperture to create a shallow depth of field, which will naturally blur out any distracting elements in the background. However, keep in mind that this technique works best when you are relatively close to your subject.

20. Frame images with foreground elements

If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, a window, etc.

Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.

The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.

21. Take posed shots into candid territory

It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.

Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.

I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.

By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.

22. Look for candid moments in nature

Even nature (flowers, landscapes, water) has candid moments. After all, we don’t normally pose our nature photos. We come upon nature doing something interesting and we make a photograph.

Nature’s moments are constantly changing. Think about a simple landscape. That landscape will look quite different depending on the time of day, from season to season, and in different weather.

And when photographing people, you can combine candid human moments with candid nature moments to create a more powerful shot.

For instance, combine these people moments:

• Action
• Emotion
• Mystery

With these nature moments:

• Season
• Weather
• Time of day

And see what you can create!

23. Enjoy the process

Don’t put too much pressure on yourself. An empty memory card can be as terrifying for a photographer as a blank piece of paper (or empty computer screen) is for a writer.

One way to get started is to take a photo of anything remotely interesting. It doesn’t really matter what it is, but I find that taking the first photo gets my creativity going and puts me in the right frame of mind to start seeing other images. Remember that you are there to enjoy the day, the sights, and the process of exploration and meeting new people, as well as photography.

Candid portrait photography advice

Specifically looking to capture stunning candid portraits? Below, I explain everything you need to know, including:

• My favorite ways to find candid portrait subjects
• How to capture candid portraiture without intimidating your subject
• How to develop your skills in a fun, easy way

Let’s dive right in!

1. Look for expressions that capture character

If you want to capture beautiful candid images, don’t simply set your camera to burst mode and fire away. Instead, watch your potential subject. And wait for a meaningful expression – one that really sums up their personality.

For instance, if you’re hoping to capture a nice candid shot of a fashion model, you might engage in some regular photography. Ask them to pose normally, to make their standard expressions, while you shoot.

But then, when you take short breaks from shooting, pay attention. Wait for those moments when your model is relaxed. And ask yourself: How do they behave when the camera isn’t pointing at them? How do they respond when you speak with them? What expressions do you notice? What unconscious gestures do they make?

When you see an expression that truly encapsulates their personality, capture it!

2. Make the most of random encounters

I remember my first evening taking photos in Bolivia. It was late afternoon, quickly fading to dusk, and the streets were lit by a soft red glow.

I raised my camera to take a photo of a mud-brick building. But out of the corner of my eye, I saw a small boy running down the street. He passed in front of the camera, stopped, turned toward me, and started waving his hands in the air. He obviously wanted to be in a photo, and a few seconds later, he was joined by an older boy, presumably his brother, who also posed. Then they continued on down the street and beckoned me along.

Curious, I followed, and they led me to a car parked around the corner, where their father was waiting for them. They explained what had happened, and then the father asked me to take a photo of all of them together. He was a little drunk, and he even invited me to their house for dinner. I politely declined, but I did take this image:

Is the portrait candid? I think so. The subjects knew I had a camera, but they were acting naturally, and I didn’t pose them. Regardless, the lesson is still a good one:

When you’re traveling and people are friendly, take advantage of the photo opportunities! Be open to random encounters. Recognize the possibilities that can arise.

At the very least, you will have some new stories to tell.

3. Use a small camera and lens

Technically, you can do candid portraiture with any gear, from a huge, hulking medium-format camera to a tiny smartphone device.

But my advice, based on a lot of experience, is to keep your setup as small as possible.

You see, the larger your camera and lens, the more you’ll stand out as a photographer. If you’re trying to document a wedding, your subjects will notice you before you get a chance to shoot. If you’re trying to do candid portraiture on the street, people will see you coming from a mile off and turn away.

Plus, large equipment is intimidating. A friend of mine is an experienced model, and she told me – after a shoot in which I used a small mirrorless camera and a small lens – that the smaller setup helped her feel more relaxed. She didn’t feel as much pressure to be a good model.

Even if you’re doing a mixture of posed and candid photography, a smaller camera will keep the subject more relaxed overall, which will mean more opportunities for wonderful candid frames!

That’s why I recommend using a setup like this one:

And if you find that slimming down your setup makes a big difference, go smaller! Purchase a small point-and-shoot camera, or even switch to your smartphone. (These days, smartphone cameras are capable of pretty impressive images, so don’t let technical concerns hold you back!)

4. Ask for permission – and explain why

If you’re just starting out with candid portrait photography, you may feel uncomfortable shooting people that you don’t know – such as street performers, diners, and even passersby.

My recommendation? Ask for permission, and when you do, clearly state a good reason.

First of all, giving people a reason makes them more likely to accept. You don’t seem like a random stalker if you explain why you want to photograph them, even if the reason is trivial.

Plus, if you have a reason in mind, asking for permission becomes far easier. You’ll feel justified in your approach, and so you’ll feel less awkward and shy.

For example, a few weeks ago I visited a blacksmith’s forge. The smiths there do demonstrations of older techniques for the visiting public, and I simply asked if I could take some photos while the smith was doing his demonstration. The smiths had zero issues with my request, and the result is a natural candid portrait of someone at work:

Another example: At Carnival in Cádiz, there were lots of people dressed in costume but only a few with face paint. When I saw somebody with interesting face paint, I explained that I really liked their makeup, and I asked if I could take a photo or two. In each case, the person agreed, I waited for a natural expression, then grabbed an image. Here’s one of my favorites:

5. Start a candid portraiture project

If you’re looking to really expand your candid portrait horizons, then instead of capturing random shots, I encourage you to start a project.

That way, you can tackle candid portraiture on a regular basis, and you can really dig in and elevate your skills.

The project doesn’t have to be especially complex, but it should have a clear theme or angle. For instance, you could photograph people at the park, you could photograph supermarket workers, or you could photograph cyclists.

Once you’ve identified your project topic, research your subject, figure out how to best take candid shots, and make a significant effort to shoot regularly. (Note that your project doesn’t need to only feature candid images. But if you’re looking to improve your candid portraiture, I do recommend you shoot candids whenever possible.)

Early last year, I thought it would be interesting to take some photos of people practicing parkour; this became my project idea, and I got in touch with some local traceurs through a Facebook group. Some of them were interested in a shoot, so we went out into the streets of Wellington, and they showed me parkour. I took photos and portraits as we went along. It was easy to create candid portraits because they were enjoying what they were doing and having fun!

6. Take photos of friends doing interesting things

If you’re struggling to find subjects for your candid portraits, try looking close to home.

You see, friends – and even family – are great candid photography subjects. For one, they know you, and so they’re more likely to be relaxed in your presence. Plus, you can have a fun portrait session that combines candid photography and socializing!

As I emphasized above, you’ll need to be observant, and you’ll need to snap photos when your subject isn’t paying attention to the camera – when they’ve let their guard down. It can be tough to talk with someone and take candid images, but if you’re focused, you can do it!

A piece of advice: When you tell your subject about your interest in candid portraits, set a clear theme. If your subject likes cycling, ask them to bring their bike, and prepare to take some candid portraits of a cyclist in action. And if your subject likes to play music, ask them to bring a guitar, and photograph them as they strum a few chords.

For example, a friend of mine made her own gypsy caravan. I thought it was a fantastic tiny space project, so once it was finished, I asked her if I could take some photos. She sat outside and played guitar, we talked about the project, and I made a few candid portraits:

Candid wedding photography: tips and advice

Weddings have changed drastically in the past few years. These days, couples want more from a wedding photographer than rigidly posed shots; they frequently prefer candid wedding photography because it captures the emotions of the couple and the guests enjoying themselves without needing to line everybody up in front of the camera.

Below, we share tips and advice for shooting weddings in an effective yet unobtrusive way. That way, the next time you get booked for a wedding, you’re ready to create an array of stunning candid images!

1. Always be ready

This is the biggest candid wedding photography tip that I can give you:

No matter what’s going on, always be ready to shoot.

In particular, make sure that you’re always keeping an eye out for interesting moments. You never know what will happen, and if you stop paying attention to the scene around you, there’s a chance that you’ll miss something phenomenal. It’s a good idea to frequently scan the room to check for moments in the making, and even when you have your camera to your eye, make sure you’re hyperaware of the action around you.

Of course, you can’t capture candid moments without equipment, so it’s essential that you always keep that camera ready. Make sure it’s in your hands and prepared to shoot at a moment’s notice. Set your camera according to the lighting conditions, and if necessary, use Aperture Priority mode so exposure decisions are made for you on the fly. You don’t want to be fiddling around with camera settings when the action starts!

Pro tip: Whenever you notice your battery or your memory card getting low, look for a lull in the action, then quickly swap it out. Don’t wait for your camera to die or the memory card to fill up completely; as I said above, you never know what’s going to happen, so it’s important that you’re always ready to photograph.

2. Know your equipment

I touched on this in the previous tip, but it’s so important that it deserves a section of its own. I’ve seen countless photographers miss shots while they are trying to change the camera settings – don’t be that person!

Instead, you must know your equipment like the back of your hand. Semi-automatic modes such as Aperture Priority are helpful and can relieve some of the pressure, but they’re not perfect and can cause problems from time to time, so it’s important you understand exactly how your camera works in case you need to make settings adjustments or take over completely.

Plus, even if you use Aperture Priority mode, you’ll need to select an aperture, an ISO, a metering mode, an autofocus mode, an autofocus area mode, and a white balance. In other words, you’ll need to really know what you are doing!

Here are just a few items to bear in mind:

• The shutter speed must be carefully managed to keep your shots sharp. Make sure that you’re always shooting at 1/100s or higher, and if your subject is moving, you’ll generally need to work at 1/250s, 1/500s, or even at 1/1000s.
• It’s usually a good idea to set a wider aperture to let in more light, though bear in mind that wider apertures will decrease the depth of field, so you’ll need to choose your point of focus carefully.
• When shooting indoors, you’ll generally need a higher ISO to allow for the faster shutter speeds I mentioned above. Don’t be afraid to push your camera’s ISO to 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, and beyond – though also recognize that higher ISOs tend to produce lots of noise, so you don’t want to boost the ISO more than necessary.
• If you’re shooting in RAW (which I highly recommend!), it often helps to set your camera’s white balance to Auto, then make tweaks in post-processing. You won’t sacrifice any flexibility by using such an approach – the RAW files can be effectively adjusted in a program like Lightroom – and it’ll save you from needing to adjust the WB setting as the lighting scenarios change.

By the way, you should also be able to change settings without consulting the manual or fiddling around in the menus. It can help to practice making settings adjustments while relaxing on the couch, watching a movie, talking on the phone, etc.

3. Use a telephoto zoom lens

Candid wedding photography is all about taking pictures of the bride, groom, guests, etc., without being noticed. You won’t capture beautiful candid moments if you’re hovering a few inches from the bride with a camera pointed in her face!

That’s why I highly recommend working with a telephoto zoom lens. I regularly shoot weddings with 70-200mm or even 100-400mm lenses if capturing candid moments is the priority. These longer lenses may seem unwieldy at first, but you’ll soon be impressed by how they can help you capture the action and emotions without actively distracting the people involved.

Additionally, a long zoom will help maintain a level of intimacy, which is essential in wedding photography. Try dialing in a wide aperture to really emphasize that shallow depth of field effect; it’s a great technique if you’re hoping to make the bride and groom look as if they’re in their own little world!

Of course, it’s also handy to keep a shorter lens around for wider candid scenes and other key shots. Many wedding photographers carry two cameras, each with a different lens, and I recommend you do the same. That way, you can capture plenty of powerful images – no matter your distance from the subject.

4. Don’t use flash

Plenty of wedding photographers like to use flash, especially for posed photos – but when it comes to candid wedding photoshoots, carrying a flash is a very bad idea.

Why? One surefire way to get noticed by your subjects is to fire that flash, whether it’s a dedicated flash gun or the pop-up flash on your camera. As soon as you’ve been noticed, your subjects will become self-conscious, and you’ll lose the beautiful candid effect.

And I’ll be honest: Light from a flash tends to be rather unflattering and boring. Yes, a flash can brighten things up, but if there’s a lack of light, I’d recommend boosting the exposure rather than adding flash. You might try widening the aperture, increasing the ISO, or slowing the shutter speed (if you have room). You can also shoot in areas of the room with more illumination, though don’t make this a habit; you don’t want to miss shots in the middle of the dance floor because you’re always hanging out by a window!

5. Make sure you plan ahead

As a candid wedding photographer, it is your job to predict what is going to happen before it does (or, at least, take a calculated guess!). If you can, I’d suggest visiting the location before the wedding and really getting a feel for the space and the lighting. While you’re there, see if you can identify potential backgrounds for photos; even if you don’t end up using them, it helps to have a few ideas in your back pocket, just in case.

If you’re unable to visit the location beforehand, then at least arrive at the venue well before the function is to start. Walk around, think about possible photo ideas, and identify any potential obstacles (such as unusually dark rooms or strong backlighting).

Then, when it’s time for the wedding to start, don’t get so caught up in the flow of the proceedings that you forget all about your careful planning and scouting. Be sure to remember your photo ideas and keep a cool head. A little bit of planning goes a long way in getting some great shots!

A guide to candid photography: final words

Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful shots of your own! Whether you’re hoping to snap candid portraits that reveal the true essence of your subject, capture some magical candid wedding photos, or explore new destinations with your camera, candid photography opens up a world of possibilities.

Remember that candid shooting is a powerful tool in your creative arsenal, allowing you to capture the raw, unfiltered moments that make life truly remarkable – so whenever you get the chance, give it a try!

Now over to you:

What type of candid photography do you plan to try? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Candid photography FAQ

The post Candid Photography: The Essential Guide (+34 Expert Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Have you ever felt like your photos were missing something essential? A shallow depth of field effect is one of my favorite ways to take your images from “zero” to “hero.”

You see, thanks to shallow DoF techniques, you can capture shots that are both artistic and professional. Of course, controlling the depth of field isn’t always a walk in the park, but it can be done, even if you’re a beginner.

In this article, I’ll share everything you need to know about shallow depth of field, including:

• What shallow depth of field actually is
• Why shallow depth of field is useful in photography
• Six easy ways to create that gorgeous shallow depth of field effect
• Tips and tricks to improve your shallow DoF images!

Sound good? Let’s dive right in, starting with a simple definition:

What is a shallow depth of field in photography?

A shallow depth of field refers to an effect where only a small portion of the image is in focus while the rest of the image turns to blur.

For instance, a portrait photo might include an in-focus person but have a blurred-out background:

A macro photo might highlight a sharp flower while letting the background turn into a beautiful wash of color:

And a food photo might feature a crisp dessert against a dark blur:

Note that the magic happens where your lens focuses; that’s the sharpest part of the photo, and that’s where the sliver of in-focus material will appear.

Professional photographers often employ this technique for stunning results. But it’s important to recognize that using a shallow depth of field isn’t the only way to take a great photo. There are alternatives that provide a different aesthetic, as we’ll explore in the next section:

Shallow vs deep depth of field

You’ve probably noticed that not every magazine-worthy photo features a dreamy background, and you’ve also probably captured some nice shots of your own where everything from the foreground to the background is sharp.

That’s what we call deep depth of field, and it’s a technique that landscape photographers frequently use. For instance, in this next shot, everything is in focus: the boats, the sand, and the reflections:

Deep depth of field has its merits. But there’s a reason many photographers often opt for shallow depth of field effects. Unlike deep depth of field, which emphasizes every element of the scene equally, shallow depth of field places the spotlight squarely on your subject for dramatic effect.

Why is a shallow depth of field effect important?

Plenty of photographers love shallow depth of field effects – for two big reasons:

1. A shallow depth of field separates the subject from the background, helping the subject stand out.
2. A shallow depth of field generally blurs the background, which looks really gorgeous (when done right, that is!).

Often, a shallow depth of field is a stylistic choice, one that certain photographers tend to prefer and other photographers like to avoid.

Here’s a list of genres that gravitate toward shallow DOF effects:

• Portrait photography
• Wildlife photography
• Street photography (sometimes)
• Fashion photography
• Product photography (sometimes)

Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive, and regardless, don’t feel hemmed in. If you prefer shallow depth of field but you shoot landscapes, that’s okay – do what you like!

How to get a shallow depth of field effect: 6 techniques

Now let’s take a look at how you can create shallow depth of field effects in your photos:

1. Increase the subject-background distance

It’s one of the easiest ways to achieve a shallow depth of field effect: Position your subject as far away from any background objects as possible.

If your subject is standing right in front of a wall, it’ll be in focus no matter what you do. But if they’re standing 100 meters in front of that same wall, it’s going to be a lot more blurry. Think of it as giving your background more room to blur.

Quick note: Technically, increasing the distance between the subject and the background doesn’t make the depth of field more shallow. The depth of field remains the same regardless (it depends on other factors that I discuss below).

But bringing your subject forward increases the appearance of a shallow depth of field and gives you a near-equivalent effect.

2. Use your camera’s Portrait mode

These days, most beginner cameras include a little wheel on top with lots of little icons on it – the Mode dial. And on certain beginner models, the Mode dial will feature Scene modes, such as Landscape, Night, Sports, etc.

Generally, one of these modes is Portrait. And if you’re uncomfortable using more advanced modes (such as Aperture Priority or Manual mode), Portrait mode is a good way to decrease the depth of field; it sets a large aperture (discussed in the next section!), which will make the depth of field smaller.

Now, Portrait mode doesn’t offer any control over your depth of field effect, so I only recommend you use it if you feel completely lost or have no intention of learning basic camera settings.

And if you do want to gain more control, check out the next method of creating shallow depth of field:

3. Widen your lens’s aperture

Every lens includes an aperture – essentially a hole – that widens or narrows depending on your camera’s aperture setting. And the wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field.

Portrait mode will automatically widen your aperture. But if you want a greater level of control, I’d recommend using either Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, which allow you to dial in your preferred aperture (then watch as the background is blurred).

If you’ve never set the aperture before, know that small numbers, such as f/1.8 and f/2.8, correspond to a wide aperture (and hence a shallow depth of field). Large numbers, such as f/16 and f/22, correspond to a narrow aperture (and a deep depth of field).

For ultra-shallow depth of field effects, stick to f/2.8 and wider if possible, though your aperture capabilities will depend on your lens (because all lenses have an aperture maximum).

In fact, if you like the idea of adjusting the aperture to achieve the perfect depth of field effect, I highly recommend you put your camera on Aperture Priority mode, find a subject, and test out a handful of different apertures. Then review each photo carefully, paying attention to how the aperture setting affects the depth of field.

4. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)

The closer you get to your subject, both optically – by using a long lens – and physically – by moving toward your subject – the shallower the depth of field and the better the background blur.

That’s why the best shallow depth of field portraits tend to be taken on an 85mm lens or a 70-200mm lens, not a 50mm or 35mm lens. The longer focal length makes it easier to get close, which in turn decreases the depth of field. Make sense?

However, if you only own a 35mm lens, don’t worry; you can still create a shallow DOF. You simply need to get close to your subject. Yes, it might be a bit uncomfortable if you’re photographing people – you’ll be shooting from right in front of their face! – but the results will be worth it.

By the way, longer lenses have another advantage over shorter lenses:

They compress the background. The actual effect is difficult to explain, but it leads to a smoother background blur and the appearance of a shallow depth of field.

So if possible, shoot your images from up close – and use a long lens, too. (Don’t get crazy with your focal length, though, especially if you’re photographing people; if you go over 200mm or so, you’ll be forced to back up ridiculously far, which can become unmanageable, plus you’ll lose a level of photographer-subject intimacy.)

5. Get a wide-aperture lens

Previously, I explained that a wide aperture leads to outstanding shallow depth of field effects. I also mentioned that some lenses feature a maximum aperture.

So if you’re serious about achieving a shallow depth of field, a lens with a wide aperture (known as a fast lens) is your friend.

Unfortunately, fast lenses tend to be expensive, but they can also be worth the investment. Plus, there are a few fast primes – such as a 50mm f/1.8 – that are optically impressive, capable of beautiful background blur, and are also quite cheap.

(Fast lenses also let you shoot in low light, which is a major bonus.)

By the way, some lenses offer better background blur than others. So before purchasing, I recommend reading reviews of possible lenses (or at least viewing sample images). Good reviewers will discuss background blur (also known as bokeh), and you can determine whether the lens is right for you.

6. Use a full-frame camera

You might have heard debates among photographers about whether a full-frame sensor truly offers a shallower depth of field than an APS-C sensor. The fact is, it does make a difference, but maybe not in the way you’d think.

Imagine you have two camera setups: one with a full-frame sensor and another with an APS-C sensor. Both setups have identical lenses and settings. You compose two similar shots, you press both shutter buttons, and you look at the files – what do you see? I’ll tell you: The image taken with the full-frame sensor will exhibit a shallower depth of field. It’s subtle but noticeable.

This isn’t some magic trick of the sensor. Rather, it’s about cropping. An APS-C sensor has a crop factor that effectively zooms into the image. To match the composition of a full-frame shot, you’d need to step back. The further you are from your subject, the deeper the depth of field will be – as I explained above -so as a result, full-frame cameras do produce more impressive shallow DoF effects compared to crop-sensor cameras, all else being equal.

Bottom line: If you’re passionate about mastering the art of shallow depth of field, investing in a full-frame camera is a solid move.

Tips for beautiful shallow depth of field effects

Achieving shallow depth of field isn’t mystical or impossible, but it does take some know-how. Here are a few quick tips and tricks to get better results:

1. Consider setting the focus manually

Shallow depth of field effects give you very little room for focusing error – so unless you’re very, very careful, you’ll end up with a lot of near-misses.

For that reason, when you’re shooting still subjects like flowers or even portraits, I’d encourage you to think about switching to manual focus.

Automatic focus systems are good. However, they don’t always focus exactly where you want, and when the depth of field is ultra-limited, that can be disastrous. With manual focus, you gain complete control. You can place that small area of sharpness precisely where you want it – whether it’s a petal or an eye.

2. Don’t forget about composition and lighting

Once you start to get good at producing shallow depth of field shots, it’s tempting to think you’ve hit the jackpot in terms of photography skills. But there’s more to a great image than just bokeh. Depth of field is one tool in your toolbox, and it’s a good one, but it’s not the entire kit.

Let’s consider composition. A well-composed shot guides the viewer’s eye where you want it to go. Depth of field can help with this, but it’s not a cure-all, so it’s important that you compose your images carefully even when you’re working with cool DoF effects.

Lighting is another photography cornerstone. Without proper lighting, even a perfectly blurred background can look flat or uninteresting. Your subject needs to be nicely lit, and that doesn’t mean just bright. It means working with light that complements the subject and mood of your image!

The takeaway here is balance. Shallow depth of field can be the star of the show, but it’s not the only thing that matters. If you focus solely on achieving that dreamy blur, you risk ignoring other photographic elements. And that usually leads to photos that lack emotional and visual depth.

3. Shoot into the light for the best backgrounds

Late afternoon offers the perfect opportunity to combine backlighting with shallow depth of field for some truly eye-catching photos:

Note that the technique isn’t reserved for any particular subject. It works wonders on flowers, leaves, and even portraits.

Start by positioning yourself so the sun is behind your subject, and see if you can adjust your angle until the low sun is poking through elements in the background, like leaves and tree branches.

Once you’ve got your angle, it’s time to focus. With the sun backlighting your subject, your camera’s autofocus might struggle. Feel free to switch to MF to efficiently set the point of focus.

Finally, make sure to dial in a wide aperture and get reasonably close to your subject. If all goes well, the combination of backlight and shallow depth of field will create a magical effect. Your subject will stand out sharply against a background – one that’s not just blurred but also beautifully illuminated. The light will interact with the out-of-focus elements to generate extraordinary bokeh.

So why does this technique work best later in the day? It’s all about the angle of the light. When the sun is low, you get a warm, diffused glow rather than harsh midday beams, and the low sun will beam through areas behind – rather than above – your subject.

4. Try photographing cities at night

Taking your camera for a spin after dark offers a thrilling new playground for shallow depth of field. The city streets are full of glowing lamps and shimmering neon signs. These lights make for extraordinary background elements, and nighttime subjects can be highly interesting, too.

For instance, you might photograph pedestrians shrouded in the enigmatic glow of streetlights, or you might capture reflections in puddles on the sidewalk. Focus tightly on the subject, and you’ll find the neon signs and other street lights dissolve into magical orbs of light. This setting naturally lends itself to limited focus, enriching your composition and lending it an atmospheric, cinematic feel.

Of course, photographing at night does come with its challenges. Exposure can be tough, and because of the low light conditions, you may find that your lens wants to focus on the brightest elements, such as those glowing signs. But with some patience and/or switching over to manual focus, you’ll be able to control where your lens directs its attention!

Shallow depth of field: final words

So there you have it: From understanding the basics of shallow depth of field to tips on how to effectively incorporate the effect in your images, you’re now better equipped to venture out and try some shallow DoF photography yourself!

So head out with your camera. See if you can get some beautiful depth of field effects. Experiment with the methods I’ve suggested.

And have fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these methods is your favorite? Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Shallow Depth of Field Photography: A Practical Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Looking to capture photos that portray the warmth, the spirit, and the festive cheer of Christmas? Christmas photography is a lot of fun, but there are a few simple techniques you can use to keep your photos looking crisp, bright, and beautiful!

In this article, I share 15 easy tips and ideas for breathtaking shots, including:

• The best Christmas photo settings
• How to choose the perfect subjects
• How to prepare for a Christmas photoshoot
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to capture some amazing images this holiday season, then let’s dive right in!

1. Get ready in advance

Preparing to capture the Christmas festivities is key to a successful shoot. You should get yourself ready by making sure that:

• You pack the camera (one year, I forgot mine in the rush to get the car ready to go)
• Your batteries are charged and you have either backups or a recharger
• You have extra memory cards (and all of the cards are empty and ready to go)

I also recommend thinking about a few location-related elements in advance. For instance, what will the lighting be like where you plan to celebrate Christmas? Will it be bright? Dim? Will you be outdoors? Inside? Will there be lots of window light? Will you need a flash? You can also check the weather; clouds and sun can make a big difference.

You might also consider enlisting a helper in advance – someone in the family who will help keep people focused and ready to go for photos when the time comes for group shots.

2. Carefully set your white balance

Here in Australia, we often celebrate Christmas outdoors, but many people around the world do it inside under artificial lighting.

If you’ll be working with artificial light, pay attention to the type of light you encounter and set your white balance accordingly. If you’re really serious, you can even set a custom white balance using a gray card!

(That said, if you set your camera to RAW and you don’t mind spending a bit of extra time at the computer, you can shoot away and set your white balance during post-processing.)

3. Set up a DIY photo booth

While most of us probably can’t afford to hire a photo booth for our Christmas parties, you can always set up a “portrait zone” of your own so you can take photos of guests.

I did this a few years ago; I set up a little place, and I asked everyone who came to the festivities to sit for me so that I could take a nice shot of them.

I photographed everyone as they came in. Then I left the camera (a point-and-shoot model) set up on a tripod so people could photograph themselves as the party continued. I made sure the camera was in a well-lit spot, and I even used a red velvet curtain-type background with a few Christmassy decorations around the edges. I also left a few Santa hats and tinsel for people to use as props.

In the end, the shots were great! People went back to my photo booth throughout the party, and the photos got crazier and crazier as time went on. Plus, everyone had a great time taking shots!

4. Capture the Christmas preparations

The actual Christmas meal or party is the best part of the day, but there are other photos worth taking, especially during those essential preparation stages. For instance, you can capture gorgeous shots of:

• Food being made
• Decorations being hung
• Gifts being wrapped
• Kids throwing tantrums as they’re dressed in Christmas outfits
• Tables being set

The shots before the main event actually starts are often great because they show everything at its best before everyone descends on the party zone.

5. Take some before and after shots

Here’s another quick Christmas photography idea:

Arrive early to the location of the festivities, set up in advance, and capture some shots just before people walk in the door.

And then, once the party is over, take shots once again. For the best results, make sure you take the shots from the same position. That way, you can compare them side by side and see the exact effects of the party!

6. Try a time-lapse Christmas series

I have a friend who set up his computer with a webcam in the corner of the room. The camera looked down on the Christmas table, and it was set to go off every five minutes over the course of the day. He ended up with one of the most wonderful series of shots that I’ve seen in a long time!

So why not try to do the same? You don’t need to use a webcam; any camera will do, including a smartphone. Just set it up in advance to shoot images at regular intervals, then come back at the end of the event and grab it. I bet you’ll love the images!

7. Photograph the Christmas lights

Good Christmas light shots look incredible – but photographing Christmas lights isn’t the easiest. A few quick recommendations:

• Use a wide aperture for a shallow depth-of-field effect
• Make sure that the lights are well exposed (even if it means letting the background fall into darkness)
• Experiment with different points of focus (try using your lens’s manual focus setting if you’re struggling)

8. Include a focal point in your photos

The problem with Christmas events is that there is so much color, lighting, and people that all the different subjects compete for attention. If you include too many elements, the viewer will be confused and the image just won’t work.

On the other hand, if you identify a single focal point and exclude any potential distractions, the final image will look far better! In my view, all good shots have a focal point that holds the attention of the viewer. So work hard to declutter your images. Figure out the item you want to emphasize, and then compose the entire shot with it in mind.

9. Take group photos at the beginning

Group photos are a Christmas photography classic! However, these shots are usually taken at the end of the day or late in the evening when everyone is at their worst.

Instead, for a fresher shot, take the group photos as soon as everyone arrives. Also, think beforehand about how you might pose everyone and where you might take the shot.

10. Shoot in Burst mode as needed

There are certain moments during a Christmas gathering that are filled with photographic opportunities. When people are opening gifts, for instance, you’re generally faced with an array of emotions and facial expressions (especially if kids are involved).

So instead of trying to time your shots just right, switch your camera to Burst mode (also known as continuous shooting mode) and take lots of images when the excitement begins. That way, you can capture everything: The anticipation of getting the wrapped gift, the fun of unwrapping, and the joy (or occasionally disappointment) of seeing what’s inside.

(Don’t forget to shoot the reactions of those who give the gift, as well.)

11. Fill the frame

It’s one of the most common Christmas photography mistakes: People photograph from across the room, so they end up portraying their subjects off in the distance with lots of space around them. The resulting images lack impact – but they could easily be so much better if the photographer just filled the frame!

So use your zoom or physically move yourself closer, then fill the frame with your subject. This is one of the simplest tips I can give, but it’s one that can have a seriously profound impact on your shots.

12. Diffuse or bounce your flash

If you live in a colder area, Christmas gatherings will be taking place indoors, and you’ll be tempted to use a flash to brighten up the dark interiors. However, if you do use a flash, you risk creating shots that are so bright that the subjects look like rabbits in a spotlight (with harsh shadows in the background).

Fortunately, you can get around this by using a flash diffuser or reflector. Another option – if you have an external flash – is to bounce it off the walls or the ceiling.

If you’re struggling to get good shots while using your flash, however, you can always put it away, adjust your lens’s aperture to its widest setting, and raise your camera’s ISO until you get a good exposure. You do risk adding unwanted noise to your images, but modern-day cameras produce minimal noise even at ISO 1600 and beyond.

13. Try going macro

Many lenses can focus fairly close, so why not try zooming on in and photographing the smaller items around your party?

Ornaments on the tree, table decorations, sweets in the bowl on the table, a nativity scene on the mantlepiece, holly above the doorway; sometimes it’s these small things that are the real money shots!

14. Watch your aperture

I often shoot in Aperture Priority mode during Christmas events, and I’m constantly changing the aperture depending on my subject.

For example, when taking shots of a Christmas decoration on the tree, I’ll select a large aperture (e.g., f/2.8) to throw the background out of focus and create a beautiful blur effect.

However, when I’m photographing everyone eating at the table, I’ll choose a small aperture (e.g., f/11) to keep everyone in focus.

And I’d encourage you to do the same! Don’t just set your lens aperture and forget about it; instead, spend time adjusting the aperture to suit the subject. (If you’re not sure what aperture to choose, just experiment! There’s nothing wrong with trying out a few different values to see what you get.)

15. Explore your neighborhood

If your neighborhood is anything like mine, then you have a near-unlimited number of photographic opportunities all around you! Christmas carolers, houses covered in Christmas decorations, shopping malls filled with festive cheer; it all makes for great photos.

So get out there with your camera and capture the fun. Christmas really is a wonderful time of year to spend time behind the camera!

Christmas photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

15 tips to improve your Christmas photos! So grab your camera, do a bit of preparation, and enjoy your Christmas gatherings!

Now over to you:

Which of these techniques do you plan to use first? Do you have any other tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 15 Christmas Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Are you ever frustrated to find images in your catalog that are low resolution, blurry, or noisy? You’re not alone. 

Photographers get stuck with low-quality images all the time, for a host of reasons. For instance, most photographers have at least a few folders filled with images captured using camera equipment during the early days of digital shooting; these files are often noisy (especially if they were taken in poor lighting conditions), and they’re simply too low quality to allow for large prints. 

And that’s not to mention images that have been cropped heavily for compositional purposes, or that were taken as still frames from video clips, or that were blurry or out of focus from the get-go. 

Once upon a time, if you found yourself frustrated by insufficient-quality files, there wasn’t much that could be done. But now, thanks to huge advancements in photo-processing technology, there’s a solution: image-quality enhancer software, which takes subpar files and – often with the help of AI – turns them into beautiful, high-resolution photos. 

But which enhancement software should you pick? In this article, I explain why Aiarty Image Enhancer is a fantastic option. I also walk you through its key features, and I offer a step-by-step tutorial for dramatically upscaling your files. By the time you’re done reading, you’ll understand what makes Aiarty special, and you’ll be ready to use it to enhance your photos!

Let’s dive right in.

Why we choose Aiarty

The Aiarty Image Enhancer is an AI-powered program that offers high-quality image enhancement in an affordable, easy-to-use package. 

Here are just a few of Aiarty’s many benefits: 

1. Versatility. You can use the software to improve low-quality JPEGs, restore flawed photographs, and even enhance AI-generated images.
2. Power. Aiarty can enhance images to 4K, 8K, and even 32K resolutions, which ensures stunning clarity and sharpness in the largest print products (even wall-sized posters!).
3. Depth and detail. Aiarty offers image-quality enhancement tools for denoising, deblurring, and upscaling, all of which produce realistic results with natural details. 
4. Comprehensiveness and ease of use. Aiarty Image Enhancer offers an all-in-one package for image-quality improvements. And it’s easy to use, even for a complete beginner, thanks to a one-click workflow for denoising, deblurring, upscaling, and more.

To see Aiarty in action, check out this official video: 

Bottom line: Aiarty Image Enhancer combines power, comprehensiveness, and versatility into an intuitive program. Plus, as I discuss in the next section, the program is surprisingly affordable: 

Aiarty’s price (and a limited-time offer!)

Normally, Aiarty’s software costs 85 USD for an annual license, though photographers also have the option to purchase a lifetime license for 155 USD. Compared to the competition – which often requires users to purchase monthly subscription packages – Aiarty is a very cost-effective image enhancer. 

But what makes the program even more appealing is the current sale, which gives you the opportunity to grab an annual Aiarty Image Enhancer license for just 75 USD, or get a lifetime license for just 99 USD. 

But that’s not all – this holiday season, Aiarty is offering a Christmas Mega Sale, where you can get the Aiarty AI Toolbox Bundle with lifetime licenses. This all-in-one bundle is perfect for upscaling and enhancing images and videos, background removal, media conversion, downloading, and more (and it’s currently over 62% off the standard price!). 

Just bear in mind that this offer is only good for a limited time, so to take advantage of the huge discount, make sure you act fast!

How to enhance your images with Aiarty

Aiarty Image Enhancer includes tools for a wide array of image improvements. In this section, I share a step-by-step tutorial so you can see just how easy it is to upscale a photo to 8K or more (even while improving sharpness and removing image noise).

When you first open the Aiarty Image Enhancer, you’ll see a modern-looking interface, with the preview screen in the center and the image-enhancement tools on the right-hand side:

To get started, you can simply drag and drop an image file onto the main window, or you can click the arrow button at the center of the screen and select the file you want to upscale. (You also have the option to import multiple files, which comes in handy when you need to enhance a batch of photos.)

Your selected image will appear in the preview window, with the option to toggle between two different before-and-after views: 

Once Aiarty has loaded the AI models and analyzed your file, it’s time to choose your upscaling settings. Under the More Details AI tab, you’ll need to choose an AI model as well as an upscaling option: 

Picking an upscaling option is easy: Just choose the option that corresponds to your desired file resolution. If you want to upscale your file to 8K, for instance, then simply select the 8K setting.

That said, the AI model you choose can constrain your upscaling options, so you must pick carefully. 

How do you select an AI model? Well, Aiarty currently offers three: 

1. More-Detail GAN v2, which generates additional detail, adds clarity and sharpness, and applies deblurring and denoising. This model offers upscaling up to 32K. 

Best for: Skin, hair, pores, and other intricate patterns.

2. Smooth Diff v2, which restores missing detail and handles file flaws, including noise and blur. This model also offers upscaling up to 32K.

Best for: 2D graphics, some faces, glass surfaces, smooth textures, anime, and line art.

3. Real-photo v3, which only offers up to 2X upscaling but restores files with beautiful, photo-realistic detail. 

Best for: Family portraits, product shots, and scenic landscapes.

Each model has its strengths and weaknesses, and I encourage you to try them all. However, if you’re looking for a quick rundown of the models’ practical uses, the More-Detail GAN v2 is best for major image upscaling (especially where fine detail is required), while the Real-Photo v3 is ideal for removing flaws (such as noise or blur) without significant upscaling. The Smooth Diff v3 can also restore flawed image files, but it generally performs better on non-photo-realistic images (i.e., drawings and graphics). 

For the purposes of my 8K upscale example, I’m going to use the More-Detail GAN v2, since my image – a wildlife portrait – includes lots of detail that requires enhancing. 

(Note: If you decide to switch the AI model after importing an image, it’s a good idea to press the Refresh button on the preview screen so you can see an accurate preview of your enhanced result!)

At this point, you can simply choose your export settings (including file format, quality level, and output path), then press the Run button: 

And Aiarty will get to work generating your enhanced image!

I do want to offer a couple more tips, however. 

First, if you’re looking for top-notch image quality, I encourage you to choose the 2-Pass Processing option, which tells the software to run the image-enhancement model a second time.

Second, if you’re enhancing an AI-generated image, and you want the program to take into account the prompt you initially used to generate that image, be sure to check the Keep the Prompt box in the Image Prompt tab.

Key Aiarty Image Enhancer features

At this point, you should be relatively familiar with the power of Aiarty’s software. However, I’d like to offer a final rundown of the main features so you can understand the overall value of the program. 

First, the program’s AI-powered denoising technology allows photographers to remove unsightly noise from images that were captured in low-light conditions (e.g., indoors, at night) or using high ISOs. Unlike traditional denoising algorithms, Aiarty’s AI models do an excellent job of removing noise while preserving image details (and even while upscaling!).  

Second, Aiarty’s deblur technology can take even the softest, out-of-focus image and generate a sharp, realistic result. It’s a great way to handle blur due to subject motion, but it also excels at correcting for cheap optics and poor focusing in the field. Plus, deblurring allows photographers to enhance compressed images and even AI-generated images!

Similarly, the More-Detail GAN v2 model does a stellar job of preserving existing elements while also creating beautifully detailed skin, texture, hair, and more. 

And the More-Detail GAN v2 model, as well as the Smooth Diff v2 model, are capable of magnificent upscaling – not just to 4K and 8K resolutions, but all the way up to 32K, allowing you to produce gorgeous image files perfect for gallery display and even for wall-sized prints.

Of course, I would be remiss not to mention the flexibility and power offered by Aiarty’s three separate AI models. You can easily switch between the three options to tailor the output to your desired result, and you can even try 2-pass processing for even more outstanding files. 

Final words

At the end of the day, Aiarty offers a cutting-edge product that can help pretty much any photographer. The combination of three AI models and flexible upscaling options ensure that you have a powerful solution to address a wide array of image-quality issues, while the one-click approach and intuitive interface make the program perfect for beginners to professionals. 

So if you’re looking to enhance your photos but you’re not sure where to turn, consider Aiarty Image Enhancer! And remember that for a few more days, you can purchase an annual or lifetime license at a huge discount – so head over to the Aiarty website and download your copy today!

(You can also check out the Aiarty store for some great holiday packages!)

Digiarty Software is a paid partner of dPS.

The post An AI Image-Quality Enhancer Like No Other: Improve Your Photo’s Quality With Aiarty Image Enhancer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.